Niacinamide 10%: How it restores barrier lipids & reduces redness
Published on 20 January 2026
Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a multi-tasking skincare ingredient that is suitable for most skin types, including sensitive and compromised skin. Working deep in the epidermis, niacinamide takes action at a cellular level to strengthen the skin barrier, reduce inflammation and support the skin’s natural balance.
What is niacinamide and why is it used in dermatology?
Niacinamide has been used in dermatology for decades, owed to its broad biological activity and tolerability. Unlike ingredients that work primarily on the skin’s surface, niacinamide penetrates the epidermis and communicates with cells, including keratinocytes and fibroblasts, encouraging them to work more efficiently. This leads to enhanced activity around skin barrier strength, collagen synthesis, oil regulation and inflammation control. This is why niacinamide is frequently described as a barrier-supporting active ingredient, rather than simply a hydrator.
One of the biggest benefits of niacinamide is that it supports the skin’s ability to function as an effective protective barrier. It does this by normalising the epidermal processes that allow the skin to produce its own structural lipids. This is particularly important when it comes to treating redness, sensitivity and age-related barrier decline.
Why barrier damage leads to redness and sensitivity
The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is a highly organised structure: a lipid matrix, composed primarily of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. This structure protects against transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and prevents irritants from penetrating the skin.
When the skin barrier becomes compromised, several changes occur. TEWL increases, leading to dehydration at a cellular level. Irritants, like germs and pollutants, penetrate more easily, triggering immune system pathways. Keratinocyte cells then respond by releasing inflammatory mediators, which stimulate vasodilation and inflammation. On the skin’s surface, this presents as redness and discomfort. Seasonal factors, aggressive skincare routines and ageing can all increase the likelihood of barrier breakdown.
Redness is, therefore, not simply a sign of sensitive skin, but a visible marker of barrier disruption and inflammation. And treating it effectively means restoring barrier function, rather than just suppressing symptoms.
How niacinamide supports barrier lipid synthesis
One of the most studied benefits of niacinamide is its role in epidermal lipid synthesis. It does this by enhancing the key enzymes involved in the production of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids.1 These lipids are synthesised internally, and then organised into layers that reinforce the skin and give it a protective barrier.
Niacinamide also supports cellular energy metabolism through NAD and NADP production, two nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) molecules. NAD molecules are naturally occurring in every living cell, working to turn food into energy. NAD is also essential for DNA repair and skin cell health. NADP helps to build molecules and protect cells. As a result, the skin is better equipped to maintain and repair the barrier following environmental stress or inflammation.
Improved lipid content leads to a stronger skin barrier, with reduced TEWL and improved hydration. Over time, the skin will become more resilient and less prone to reactive redness. This is especially relevant for ageing skin, where lipid synthesis is on a natural decline and barrier recovery is starting to slow.
Niacinamide and redness: What happens at a cellular level
Beyond its skin barrier benefits, niacinamide offers strong antioxidant activity that helps to decrease inflammatory responses. It does this by influencing inflammatory signalling pathways within the skin, regulating and reducing the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines (the chemical messengers that activate responses to inflammation or injury).
Niacinamide also inhibits reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation and oxidative stress,2 reducing overall redness and inflammation. What’s more, niacinamide reduces redness and ‘blushing’ by limiting excess blood flow to vessels. This is particularly noticeable in skin types that are prone to erythema.
When the skin is calm, it looks more smooth and even, because inflammatory triggers are reduced and barrier integrity is improved. For those with rosacea or redness-prone skin, the combination of skin barrier repair and inflammation control is what really makes a difference over the long term.
Does concentration matter? Understanding niacinamide at 10%
Niacinamide is effective across a range of concentrations, but impact and results are dose dependent. Lower concentrations are primarily associated with hydration support and mild barrier reinforcement. Higher concentrations, such as niacinamide 10%, have been shown to exert more pronounced effects on lipid synthesis, inflammation and skin barrier recovery.
However, concentration alone does not determine efficacy or tolerability. Formulation quality, pH balance and the delivery systems play equally important roles. Poorly formulated, high-percentage niacinamide products can increase the risk of irritation and reactions, particularly in compromised skin.
When formulated appropriately, niacinamide 10% can be well tolerated and effective for barrier repair and redness reduction. This requires careful consideration of your skin type, supporting ingredients, and the avoidance of compromising active ingredients. In science-led brands such as ENDOCARE, niacinamide is included in regenerative formulations that support skin repair, rather than overstimulating the skin.
Why niacinamide is especially relevant in winter
Winter weather can put a lot of stress on the skin barrier. Low humidity levels will reduce moisture, which doesn’t just dry out the skin, but reduces the amount of hydration required for enzymes to effectively shed dead skin cells. This is what leads to dry, flaking skin. Hot, dry central heating will further increase TEWL. Combined, these conditions create a cycle of dehydration and inflammation.
During winter, skin recovery capacity is reduced, owed to dehydration and the reduction of blood flow to the skin’s surface. This means fewer nutrients are delivered to support skin healing. Microdamages can build up more easily, and any inflammation will persist for longer. This makes redness and sensitivity more visible, even in individuals with otherwise normal or non-reactive skin types.
This means niacinamide is extremely useful in the wintertime. Not only does it support the skin’s deep repair mechanisms, but it improves lipid synthesis and reduces inflammatory signalling, helping skin to adapt more efficiently to seasonal stress.
Niacinamide supports barrier repair, not just hydration
Niacinamide is a highly effective long term skincare strategy for those who suffer with redness and reactivity. More than just a hydrator, niacinamide helps the skin to rebuild its protective barrier, addressing one of the key causes of persistent redness, rather than simply masking the symptoms.
Who benefits most from niacinamide 10%?
Niacinamide 10% is especially beneficial for those with redness or sensitive skin, including individuals who experience erythema, post-inflammatory redness or reactive flushing.
Post-procedure skin and retinoid users may also benefit from using niacinamide, as long as the formulations are appropriate for compromised skin barriers. Since niacinamide supports the repair pathways that are often suppressed during active treatments, it can help to restore balance without interfering with clinical results.
Ageing skin is another key group who will benefit from regular niacinamide use. As lipid synthesis naturally declines with age, the barrier becomes thinner and less resilient. Niacinamide will support lipid production and reduce TEWL, contributing to a stronger skin barrier and an overall healthier complexion.
The power of ENDOCARE
ENDOCARE from Cantabria Labs, the experts behind HELIOCARE 360°, is a scientifically-advanced, anti-ageing skincare range that is designed to meet every stage and symptom of the skin ageing process. Combining proven gold-standard ingredients with patented technologies, ENDOCARE products are clinically proven to brighten the skin, improve texture, reduce pigmentation and improve the appearance of wrinkles. The three ENDOCARE product categories are designed to target specific skin ageing concerns: AGE BARRIER, RADIANCE, and RENEWAL.
The hero product within the ENDOCARE AGE BARRIER collection is the Niacinal Serum Gel, a velvety, fast-absorbing serum that is formulated to hydrate, soothe and reinforce the skin barrier. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and compromised skin, with an oil-free and non-comedogenic formulation. In particular, it is effective in treating redness and restoring barrier lipids, with 10% niacinamide and other powerful dermatological ingredients, including hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5 and the unique EDAFENCE® technology, a patented antioxidant complex proven to protect against pollution. Together, these scientifically-proven ingredients work to strengthen and restore compromised skin barriers and reduce redness, promoting stronger, calmer and more hydrated skin over time.
When used daily, the result is smoother and stronger skin, with skin barrier function improved by more than 40% in two weeks and hydration boosted by 24% in four weeks,3 along with increased skin firmness and elasticity by more than 20%.4 What’s more, the AGE BARRIER Niacinal Serum Gel from ENDOCARE has been found to reduce the depth of forehead wrinkles and the total wrinkle area.5
Use daily as part of a morning and evening routine, either alone or layered under moisturiser and SPF. This will help to support long-term barrier health and visible skin resilience. Shake the product before use and apply 4-6 drops evenly, twice a day, to the face, neck and decolletage. Massage the product gently until it is completely absorbed.
