Understanding skin ageing
Published on 11 March 2026
Causes, processes and changes
As we age, our skin functions gradually slow and environmental stressors take their toll. Skin ageing affects everyone at some point, but certain factors can make you more susceptible to the signs and symptoms of ageing skin.
What is skin ageing?
Skin ageing refers to the gradual biological changes that occur in the skin’s structure and its functions. These changes affect cellular turnover, collagen and elastin production, skin barrier integrity, and the skin’s ability to repair and regenerate.
Surface changes, such as fine lines and uneven skin tone, may be the first noticeable indications of skin ageing. But the process begins long before these signs occur.
Ageing affects everyone, but it does not always progress at the same rate, or in the same way. Individuals of the same age can show very different skin characteristics. These variations are influenced by a number of factors, including environment, lifestyle and overall skin health. Genetics also have a considerable influence in skin ageing, with certain genes influencing the oxidative stress response and the rate of collagen breakdown in the skin, thus affecting wrinkle formation and other signs of ageing.1
Intrinsic vs extrinsic skin ageing
There are two different types of skin ageing: intrinsic and extrinsic. Intrinsic ageing, also known as chronological ageing, is the natural, genetically-programmed process that occurs as we grow older. Over time, intrinsic ageing leads to slower epidermal cell turnover and reduced collagen and lipid production. The dermis also gradually thins with age. These changes occur regardless of lifestyle, driven by internal biological mechanisms.
Meanwhile, extrinsic ageing, or environmental ageing, is driven by external factors, the most significant of which is UV radiation. Skin ageing caused by exposure to the sun (as well as other artificial sources of UV) is referred to as photoageing, which leads to more severe characteristics of ageing compared to intrinsic ageing. This includes deeper wrinkles, more uneven pigmentation and visible blood vessels. Other causes of extrinsic ageing include pollution, smoking, poor diet, chronic stress and lack of sleep.
Unlike intrinsic ageing, extrinsic ageing is heavily influenced by lifestyle and environmental exposure, accelerating the natural biological ageing process with increased oxidative stress and inflammation.
How skin structure changes with age
The epidermis - the outermost layer of the skin - renews itself continuously. But as we age, this cycle slows down. A ‘normal’ skin turnover cycle in young adults is widely considered to be 28 days, but with age, the process slows significantly. Dead skin cells accumulate on the skin surface, leading to a dull and uneven-looking complexion. Fine lines and wrinkles also become more pronounced.
From early adulthood, collagen production gradually decreases, and elastin fibres become less organised. This leads to a reduction in skin firmness and loss of structural support. As we grow older, our skin also accumulates more damage, which impacts fibroblast activity. This further reduces collagen and elastin synthesis.2
Our skin barrier also weakens with age. The barrier is supported by lipids, including ceramides and fatty acids, which help to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and protect against external aggressors. This keeps the skin hydrated and healthy. With age, lipid production declines and TEWL increases, leading to a weakened and fragile skin barrier with increased dryness and reactivity.
The role of oxidative stress in skin ageing
As mentioned, one of the key drivers of extrinsic ageing is oxidative stress. Oxidative stress is caused by excessive unstable molecules, known as free radicals, which scavenge other molecules to steal electrons. This leads to a chain reaction of unstable molecules.
Free radicals are generated by natural metabolic processes, but other external triggers include UV radiation, pollution and poor lifestyle choices. Under healthy conditions, the body’s natural antioxidant systems neutralise free radicals efficiently. However, when free radical production exceeds the skin’s natural defences, cells become damaged and skin ageing processes accelerate.
Why skin repair and regeneration slow over time
Healthy skin has a strong barrier, regular functions and the ability to constantly restore itself. It is capable of defending against external irritants and resolving any microdamages.
However, with age, the skin is less able to repair and regenerate. This is because cellular energy production has declined and DNA repair has become less efficient. Reduced regeneration is key in the skin ageing process, and explains why older skin often feels weak and fragile.
Ageing also has a significant impact on skin healing, as it has a prolonged inflammatory phase. This leads to protein degradation and complications in wound healing.3
Visible signs of skin ageing
Ageing is an unavoidable biological process, but its visible signs can manifest differently. Whilst some people may notice an increase in fine lines, others might experience considerable changes to skin texture. Oilier skin types may also notice a slower ageing process.4
Some of the most common changes in ageing skin include wrinkles, dullness, uneven tone, roughness, dryness and redness. These signs reflect underlying structural and functional changes, not just surface-level alterations.
Why modern dermatology focuses on skin function, not just appearance
Skin ageing is not simply a cosmetic concern. Whilst intrinsic ageing is a predetermined part of life, extrinsic ageing and the exacerbation of signs of ageing, including dull, dry and sensitive skin, can signal that its normal functions are disrupted.
Beyond being a surface issue, excessive signs of ageing are a marker of poor skin function. And they can be controlled or completely avoided with the right lifestyle choices, including SPF and a strong skincare routine. For healthy and resilient skin, no matter your age, we need to be considering:
Barrier health
A strong, healthy skin barrier is the skin’s first line of defence, reducing water loss, protecting against environmental stressors and improving comfort. To support the skin barrier, we need to hydrate and restore lipids, as well as limiting irritation, with barrier-supporting ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5, niacinamide, and Cantabria Labs’ unique anti-pollution technology, EDAFENCE®.
Cellular repair and renewal
Healthy cell turnover and repair mechanisms will support long-term structural integrity in the skin. Dermatologist-validated active ingredients, including retinoids and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which will stimulate cell renewal while minimising irritation.
Antioxidant activity
Oxidative stress takes its toll on ageing skin. Antioxidants will counter this damage by neutralising free radicals. Look for formulations that harness the power of antioxidants, including vitamin C, ferulic acid and vitamin E, which neutralises free radicals and prevents the cascade of damage caused by pollution.
Skin ageing is a biological process that can be supported
Rather than focusing on short-term correction to skin ageing concerns, we should aim to support the biological systems that maintain skin health over time. Skin ageing is not simply about wrinkles, but the gradual changes in the skin barrier and cellular functions that can make the skin look and feel older than we desire.
While skin ageing cannot be stopped or reversed, the processes involved can be supported, helping the skin to stay healthy and youthful for longer. This includes protecting against environmental damage with a high-level, full-spectrum SPF every single day, as well as choosing ingredients that reinforce the skin barrier and encourage regeneration.
The science-led skincare range, ENDOCARE, is the ultimate choice for visible anti-ageing results. Clinically proven to address key skin ageing concerns, ENDOCARE formulations are created with gold-standard active ingredients and patented technologies that produce real results. This includes the ENDOCARE Age Barrier range, with users reporting more than 40% improvement in skin barrier function in just two weeks, and more than 24% improvement in hydration in four weeks.5
Meanwhile, the ENDOCARE Radiance range, which includes the Vitamin C20 Serum, can transform the complexion in just seven days, leaving 95% of users with a brighter, more radiant complexion, and 90% of users with firmer, plumper skin. 95% of users also reported immediately tighter-feeling skin.6
Finally, the ENDOCARE Renewal Retinoid Serum and ENDOCARE Renewal Retinoid Intensive Serum contain RetinDuo® Technology, which is clinically proven to offer significant skin improvement in just ten days,7 including a 50% increase in collagen, 30% increase in elastin and 70% increase in epidermal thickness.
