Skin barrier health and acne-prone skin: A guide to retinoid support

Published on 18 June 2026
By The Cantabria Labs UK Brand and Scientific Team

For many people living with acne-prone skin, prescription retinoids can play an important role in their treatment journey. Whether prescribed as a topical retinoid such as tretinoin, adapalene or trifarotene, or as oral isotretinoin for more severe acne, retinoids are widely recognised for their ability to target several of the underlying mechanisms involved in acne development.1

However, while these treatments can be highly effective, they are also commonly associated with skin dryness, irritation, redness and increased sensitivity.1-3 For many patients, managing these side effects becomes an important part of maintaining comfort and adherence to treatment.

Understanding how prescription retinoids affect the skin barrier – and how to support it – can help improve skin comfort and overall skin quality while undergoing acne treatment.

What is the skin barrier?

The skin barrier, also known as the stratum corneum, is the outermost layer of the skin and serves as the body's first line of defence against environmental aggressors.

A healthy skin barrier performs several important functions:

  • Helps retain moisture within the skin
  • Protects against external irritants and pollutants
  • Supports skin resilience and comfort
  • Regulates transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
  • Maintains overall skin homeostasis

When the barrier becomes compromised, water is lost more easily from the skin, leading to increased dryness, irritation and sensitivity.

For individuals with acne-prone skin, maintaining barrier integrity can be particularly important, especially when using prescription treatments that accelerate epidermal turnover.1

Diagram showing healthy skin barrier
A diagram showing a compromised skin barrier

How prescription retinoids work

Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that are widely used in dermatology to help manage acne-prone skin.

Current acne treatment guidelines recognise retinoids as an important component of acne management due to their ability to normalise follicular keratinisation, reduce microcomedone formation and support healthy skin cell turnover.1

Common prescription retinoid treatments include:

  • Topical tretinoin
  • Topical adapalene
  • Topical trifarotene
  • Combination retinoid therapies
  • Oral isotretinoin

Oral isotretinoin is typically reserved for moderate-to-severe acne and works by significantly reducing sebaceous gland activity and sebum production while influencing several acne-related pathways.2

While highly effective, retinoids can also affect skin barrier function, particularly during the initial stages of treatment.3,4

Understanding retinisation: Why retinoids can cause dryness and sensitivity

Many patients experience what dermatologists commonly refer to as ‘retinisation’ – a temporary adjustment period during which the skin adapts to retinoid therapy.

During this phase, accelerated skin cell turnover and changes within the epidermis can lead to temporary barrier disruption and increased transepidermal water loss.4

Common side effects may include:

  • Skin dryness
  • Dry, cracked lips (Cheilitis)
  • Erythema (redness)
  • Flaking and peeling
  • Tightness
  • Increased sensitivity
  • Stinging or burning sensations

These effects are particularly common during the first weeks of treatment and are frequently reported in patients undergoing oral isotretinoin therapy.2-4

Although often temporary, these symptoms can affect quality of life and may contribute to reduced treatment adherence if not appropriately managed.5

Why supporting the skin barrier matters during retinoid treatment

When the skin barrier becomes compromised, increased TEWL can result in dehydration, discomfort and reduced skin tolerance.

Supporting barrier function throughout treatment can help:

  • Improve skin comfort
  • Reduce feelings of dryness and tightness
  • Maintain hydration levels
  • Support overall skin resilience

For dermatologists and skincare professionals, supportive skincare is increasingly recognised as an important adjunct to prescription acne treatment, helping patients manage treatment-related side effects while maintaining healthy skin function.5,6

The BIRETIX Isorepair Regime: Support retinoid-treated acne-prone skin

The BIRETIX Isorepair Regime is a barrier-supporting skincare routine developed specifically for dry and sensitive acne-prone skin undergoing prescription retinoid treatment.

The regime works by combining gentle cleansing, prescribed acne treatment and targeted barrier care to help support skin comfort throughout the retinoid treatment journey.

Step 1: BIRETIX Isorepair Creamy Cleanser

Cleansing remains an important step in any acne-prone skincare routine, but harsh cleansing can further contribute to barrier disruption.

BIRETIX Isorepair Creamy Cleanser is a hydrating, pH-balanced cleanser formulated to cleanse while helping soothe dry and sensitised skin. 9/10 users of BIRETIX Isorepair Creamy Cleanser reported healthier looking skin.7

Key ingredients include niacinamide, panthenol, ceramides and hyaluronic acid. Together, these ingredients help support hydration, reinforce the skin barrier and improve skin comfort while effectively removing impurities from the skin.

BIRETIX Isorepair Creamy Cleanser

Step 2: Prescription Retinoids

After cleansing, prescribed acne treatments such as topical retinoids should be used exactly as directed by your doctor, dermatologist or prescribing healthcare professional.

Prescription retinoids, including tretinoin, adapalene and trifarotene, are used to help manage acne-prone skin by supporting skin cell turnover and reducing the formation of clogged pores. However, they can also cause dryness, redness, peeling and sensitivity, particularly during the early stages of treatment.1-4

Because prescription acne treatments vary depending on individual skin needs, it is important not to alter how often you use your retinoid, combine treatments, or stop treatment without first speaking to your healthcare professional.

Step 3: BIRETIX Isorepair Cream

At the centre of the regime is BIRETIX Isorepair Cream, an oil-free moisturising cream formulated to help restore comfort to dry, compromised and sensitised skin.

The formulation contains ceramides, biomimetic lipids, hyaluronic acid, Pentavitin®, glycerine, niacinamide, panthenol and Growth Factor Technology. Together, these ingredients help support hydration, reinforce skin barrier function and improve overall skin comfort.

In a dermatological evaluation involving 20 volunteers, Biretix Isorepair Cream demonstrated a 46% reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), helping to support skin barrier integrity and improve the skin's ability to retain moisture. These findings highlight its role in providing effective hydration and barrier support for dry, sensitive and retinoid-treated skin.8

BIRETIX Isorepair Cream

Step 4: BIRETIX Isorepair Lip Balm

Dry, cracked lips are among the most commonly reported side effects of oral isotretinoin treatment.2

BIRETIX Isorepair Lip Balm has been formulated to help soothe, restore and protect sensitised lips.

Key ingredients include panthenol, bisabolol, shea butter, aloe vera and cocoa butter.

Clinical testing demonstrated immediate hydration, with a 68% increase in lip hydration immediately following application and hydration maintained for up to six hours.7

BIRETIX Isorepair Lip Balm

Step 5: Daily Photoprotection

The final step in any acne-prone skincare routine should be daily broad-spectrum sun protection.

Prescription retinoids can increase skin sensitivity, making photoprotection particularly important during treatment.1,2 Daily SPF helps protect the skin from UV exposure and supports overall skin health while the skin barrier is adapting to treatment.

For those undergoing prescription retinoid treatment, a lightweight, non-comedogenic sunscreen can help provide daily protection without feeling heavy or greasy on the skin.

We recommend completing your BIRETIX Isorepair Regime with HELIOCARE 360° Water Gel SPF50+, a lightweight daily sunscreen that provides broad-spectrum protection against UVB, UVA, visible light and infrared-A while delivering hydration to the skin. Its fast-absorbing, water-based texture makes it suitable for many individuals with acne-prone skin who may be concerned about heavier formulations.

HELIOCARE 360° Water Gel SPF50+

Clinical Evidence Supporting BIRETIX Isorepair

The BIRETIX Isorepair Regime has been evaluated through both clinical experience in patients undergoing oral isotretinoin treatment and dermatological tolerance testing designed to assess hydration and skin barrier support.

Together, these evaluations demonstrate the role of BIRETIX Isorepair in supporting dry, sensitive and retinoid-treated skin.

Study 1: Clinical Experience in Patients Undergoing Oral Isotretinoin Treatment

An open-label clinical experience conducted by Dr Mayte Truchuelo evaluated the use of BIRETIX Isorepair Cream in 20 patients receiving oral isotretinoin (20mg/day) over a 12-week period.

Patients were assessed at baseline, Day 45 and Day 90.

Key Clinical Findings

  • Improved overall skin comfort during oral isotretinoin treatment
  • Helped support treatment tolerability throughout the study period
  • Reduced common symptoms associated with retinoid therapy, including dryness, irritation and discomfort
  • Improved overall skin quality
  • Improvements observed in the visible appearance of acne scarring

These findings suggest that BIRETIX Isorepair Cream helps improve skin comfort, support treatment tolerability and reduce the visible signs of dryness and irritation commonly associated with oral isotretinoin therapy.9

Before and after images showing patient was assessed at baseline, Day 45 and Day 90.

Study 2: Dermatological Evaluation of Hydration and Skin Barrier Support

A separate dermatological evaluation conducted by Zurko Research assessed the tolerance and hydration-supporting properties of BIRETIX Isorepair Cream in 20 volunteers.

Key Clinical Findings

  • 46% reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
  • Improved skin hydration levels
  • Good skin tolerance

These results demonstrate that BIRETIX Isorepair Cream helps support skin barrier function, improve moisture retention and provide effective hydration for dry, sensitised and retinoid-treated skin.8

Explore the BIRETIX Isorepair Regime

For individuals experiencing dry, sensitive or compromised acne-prone skin, particularly during prescription retinoid treatment, the BIRETIX Isorepair Regime offers a dedicated approach to gentle cleansing, hydration and barrier support.

As part of the wider BIRETIX Purify, Treat and Care philosophy, Isorepair helps support skin when it needs additional care throughout the acne treatment journey.

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Supporting every stage of the acne journey with BIRETIX

Acne-prone skin is rarely static and treatment journeys are rarely linear. Skin needs can change depending on symptom severity, treatment stage and individual concerns.

This is why BIRETIX has developed a range of acne-prone skincare regimes designed to support different acne-prone skin needs.

BIRETIX Adolescent & Persistent Acne-Prone Skin Regime

This regime helps manage active blemishes while addressing associated concerns including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), post-blemish marks and the visible appearance of acne scarring. Through targeted exfoliation and skin-renewing technologies, it supports clearer, smoother and more even-looking skin. Clinically proven to significantly reduce blemishes by up to 76% and blackheads by 61% after only 28 days of regular use, the regime also helps reduce excess sebum while remaining suitable for sensitive skin.11

BIRETIX Adolescent & Persistent Acne-Prone Skin Regime
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BIRETIX Adult Acne-Prone Skin Regime

Developed for adult acne-prone skin, this regime helps manage active blemishes while addressing associated concerns such as enlarged pores, uneven skin texture, excess oil and post-blemish marks. Formulated with targeted ingredients that support skin renewal and barrier function, it helps improve overall skin clarity and radiance while promoting a smoother, more refined and balanced-looking complexion. Clinical evaluation demonstrated a significant reduction in sebum, skin shine and pore size in as little as 14 days, with significant reductions in redness and blemishes after 28 days.12

BIRETIX Adult Acne-Prone Skin Regime
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Together, the BIRETIX regimes allow individuals to adapt their skincare routine as their skin's needs evolve, providing support throughout every stage of the acne journey -from active treatment and barrier recovery through to long-term maintenance of healthier-looking skin.

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FAQs

Why do retinoids make the skin dry? 

Retinoids accelerate skin cell turnover and can temporarily disrupt barrier function during the adjustment phase known as retinisation. This may increase transepidermal water loss and contribute to dryness, flaking and sensitivity.¹⁻⁴

What is the most common side effect of oral isotretinoin? 

Cheilitis, or dry and cracked lips, is one of the most commonly reported side effects of oral isotretinoin. Many patients also experience dry skin, redness and increased sensitivity during treatment.² 

What ingredients help support the skin barrier? 

Ceramides, hyaluronic acid, glycerine, niacinamide, panthenol and biomimetic lipids are commonly used to help support hydration, barrier function and skin comfort. 

Can I use moisturiser with prescription retinoids? 

Yes. Dermatologists commonly recommend using a moisturiser alongside retinoid treatment to help support skin hydration, barrier function and treatment tolerability.⁵ 

How does the BIRETIX Isorepair Regime fit into the Purify, Treat and Care approach? 

The BIRETIX Isorepair Regime supports the Purify and Care stages of the BIRETIX approach, while prescription retinoids represent the Treat element. It gently cleanses, hydrates and supports compromised skin and lips, helping improve comfort throughout prescription retinoid treatment. 

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References

1 National Institute for Health and Care Excellence (NICE). Acne vulgaris: management. NICE Guideline NG198. 2021. Available at: https://www.nice.org.uk/guidance/ng198

2 British Association of Dermatologists. Isotretinoin Patient Information Leaflet. Available at: https://www.bad.org.uk/pils/isotretinoin

3 Layton AM. The use of isotretinoin in acne. Dermato-Endocrinology. 2009;1(3):162–169. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.4161/derm.1.3.9364

4 ‌Del Rosso JQ. The role of skin care as an integral component in the management of acne vulgaris. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2013;6(12):19–27. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3997205/

5 ‌ Dreno B, Tan J, Kang S, et al. The role of adjunctive skin care in acne management. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology. 2014;28(11):S1–S16. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jdv.12490

6 ‌ Truchuelo M. Open-label clinical experience evaluating Biretix Isorepair Cream in 20 patients receiving oral isotretinoin 20 mg/day over 12 weeks. Data on file. Cantabria Labs.

7 User satisfaction questionnaire after 28 days use of Biretix Creamy Cleanser. Cantabria Labs Spain. Data on File.‌

8 Zurko Research. Evaluation of tolerance and skin barrier support of Biretix Isorepair Cream in 20 volunteers. Data on file. Cantabria Labs. ‌

9 Open-label clinical experience, 20 patients on oral isotretinoin (20 mg/day) over 12 weeks; assessments at baseline, day 45 and day 90 (Dr Mayte Truchuelo) ‌

10 Biretix Isorepair Lip Balm. Clinical use test in 10 subjects with Corneometer® measurements following a single application. Data on file. Cantabria Labs.‌

11 Milani, M., & Colombo, F. (2023). Clinical-instrumental assessment of a daily cosmetic regimen in ensuring improved skin barrier and tolerability in sensitive skin undergoing acne treatment: A prospective open trial. International Journal of Clinical & Experimental Dermatology, 8(1), 1–8.‌

12 ‌ Data on file. CRO Complife, Italy 2024. Clinical-Instrumental evaluation of the efficacy and tolerability of a cosmetic treatment in subjects with acne prone skin; 20 female subjects with mild to moderate acne symptoms applied Biretix Double Correction Serum twice daily for 42 days - results tested at baseline (T0) and after 14 (T14), 28 (T28) and 42 days (T42).