How to layer antioxidants and SPF for maximum photoprotection

Antioxidants and SPF are must-haves in your skincare routine. When combined, their powerful properties work in synergy to protect against free radicals and sun damage, whilst replenishing the skin and boosting its overall health. Discover the benefits and activities of each ingredient, and why SPF and antioxidant layering is such an important part of your routine.

Why our skin needs sun protection

Excessive exposure to the sun’s UV rays leads to a number of health risks, including sunburn, deep skin damage, photoaging and, in the most severe instances, skin cancer. The best way to protect our skin from the sun is to wear a high-level, broad-spectrum sunscreen every single day, no matter the weather. That’s because the sun’s rays are present and harmful all year round.

This is most true for UVA rays, which make up approximately 95% of the UV radiation that reaches the surface¹ of the earth. UVA rays are present every single day, even when it’s not sunny. These rays have long wavelengths that penetrate to the deepest layers of the dermis, causing cellular damage to the skin’s DNA, which leads to premature skin ageing and an increased risk of skin cancer.

Meanwhile, high-energy UVB rays hit the very top layers of the skin and cause it to burn. UVB rays contribute to just 5% of UV radiation, but they are incredibly powerful and damaging, especially in the spring and summer months and during peak hours. UVB radiation is strongest the closer you are to the equator, in high altitudes and in areas with a low ozone layer, which is why it’s a particular concern when you’re holidaying. UVB damage is noticeable very quickly after exposure, with symptoms including redness and pain. But UVB rays have also been linked to longer-term cellular damage, leading to a heightened risk of skin cancer.

Along with UV radiation, the sun emits high-energy visible light (HEV) and infrared-A radiation. These rays penetrate the deepest layers of skin, causing DNA damage and problems including loss of elasticity, sagging, lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.

What are free radicals and antioxidants?

The cellular damage we’ve mentioned is caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation and free radicals. Both UVA and UVB rays generate these reactive chemicals, which have been found to have a profound effect on human skin cells. In fact, UV exposure is considered one of the biggest contributors of free radicals, responsible for approximately 80% of free radical damage².

Free radicals are single, unstable molecules that are missing electrons from their outer shells. Since electrons prefer to be paired up, the molecules will scavenge the body for a suitable electron to make them whole. But this involves stealing an electron from another molecule, which causes a chain reaction of unstable free radicals³. The process causes oxidative stress, which is what leads to cellular damage and the breakdown of proteins in the skin.

The most effective method for combatting free radicals is antioxidants, which have an incredible ability to stabilise molecules by donating electrons without causing any further damage. This helps to slow down or completely break the domino effect of free radicals.

The best antioxidants for sun protection

Antioxidants play a key role in skin health, protecting the skin against environmental aggressors, repairing damaged cells and improving skin ageing concerns. Some of the best antioxidants for skin health include:

Vitamin C

Vitamin C offers many benefits, including promoting collagen synthesis, inhibiting melanin synthesis (therefore reducing hyperpigmentation), smoothing fine lines, reducing redness and helping to prevent moisture loss.

Ferulic acid

Ferulic acid protects the skin from environmental aggressors and helps to reduce signs of aging. It also enhances the effectiveness of other antioxidants, like vitamin C and E.

Vitamin E

Vitamin E has anti-inflammatory properties, particularly beneficial following sun exposure. It helps to reduce swelling, thickening and redness, as well as preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which maintains the skin’s hydration and barrier function.

Ginger root extract

Ginger root extract is a natural antioxidant with soothing, anti-inflammatory properties, helping to brighten and balance the skin tone, reduce scarring and protect the skin from additional damage.

Green tea extract

Green tea extract is rich in polyphenols, offering anti-inflammatory and anticarcinogenic properties. This calming and protective antioxidant reduces inflammation whilst helping to prevent premature skin ageing.

Step up your skincare routine with HELIOCARE 360°, antioxidant-rich sun protection

HELIOCARE 360° is the ultimate in antioxidant sun protection, with all formulations featuring Fernblock®, and several featuring the new ASPA-Fernblock® technology.

Fernblock®

Fernblock® Technology is the ultimate in antioxidant skincare. This award-winning sun protection technology, a patented plant extract from the Central American fern Polypodium leucotomos, offers unique protective and restorative action against solar radiation.

Fernblock® is an exclusive, powerful antioxidant that is clinically proven to prevent and repair the damage of daylight and free radicals. It protects the skin from the full spectrum of light and improves the effectiveness of SPF filters, helping to prevent sunburn, inflammation and redness following sun exposure. Over the longer term, Fernblock® prevents collagen breakdown, protects skin cell DNA, reduces light-induced pigmentation and protects the skin’s immune system.

ASPA-Fernblock®

ASPA-Fernblock® takes things to a new level, enhancing HELIOCARE's powerful bioactive defence and antioxidant protection by combining Fernblock® with potent extracts of Aspalathus linearis (ASPA). ASPA is a South African plant more commonly known as Rooibos, and it is rich in flavonoids, which are packed full of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties.

While vitamin D is vital in skin health - playing a key role in skin cell renewal, immune function and healing - overexposure to ultraviolet radiation can actually deplete vitamin D stores, whilst oxidative stress damages vitamin D receptors, which impacts the skin’s ability to synthesise vitamin D effectively.

That’s where ASPA-Fernblock®’s OptiD effect comes in: helping to optimise the skin’s natural vitamin D function, as well as protecting the skin’s vitamin D receptors (VDRs) from oxidative stress, ensuring you are getting only the very best from the sun.

Using a high-level (SPF50) full-spectrum sunscreen like HELIOCARE, and applying antioxidants every single day, will protect the skin from UVA, UVB, HEV and infrared-A, whilst also helping to resolve existing skin damage. Another benefit of a regular antioxidant SPF routine will be preventing signs of premature skin ageing, such as fine lines, deep wrinkles, pigmentation, dullness and loss of elasticity.

An antioxidant and SPF layering routine featuring HELIOCARE 360° and ENDOCARE

Remember, antioxidants complement your sun protection, rather than replacing it. They will benefit all skin types, but are especially beneficial to those with pigmentation, rosacea or photoaged skin. Sunscreen and antioxidants should be used every day, all year round, no matter the weather. Regular application will boost results, as antioxidants have a cumulative effect. Take a look at the following daily skincare routine, which can be built around our very own antioxidant and SPF regime, our Face the Day Kit.

The Face the Day Kit will provide a supercharged start to your day, featuring your favourite HELIOCARE 360° product, plus the powerful anti-pollution, antioxidant ENDOCARE RADIANCE C Ferulic Edafence Serum. This expertly-designed kit harnesses the power of antioxidant defence and sun protection, clinically proven to defend the skin against the full light spectrum and boost its natural resilience.

Morning SPF layering routine

• Cleanse the skin.
• Apply an antioxidant serum, such as ENDOCARE RADIANCE C Ferulic Edafence Serum.
• Follow with a moisturiser rich in antioxidants, such as niacinamide (vitamin B3).
• Once absorbed, apply the high-level (SPF50) full-spectrum HELIOCARE 360° SPF of your choice. Apply evenly, using approximately two full finger lengths of product, ensuring you get full coverage up to the hairline and around the eyes.
• Reapply your SPF every two hours during periods of high sun exposure.

Evening antioxidant routine

• Cleanse the skin.
• Apply an antioxidant serum, such as ENDOCARE RADIANCE C Ferulic Edafence Serum, or a retinol treatment (vitamin A).
• Follow with eye cream and moisturiser rich in antioxidants, such as niacinamide (vitamin B3).