Best ingredients for managing ageing skin

As we grow older, the biological processes that keep our skin firm, hydrated and resilient gradually slow down. Collagen production declines, cellular renewal becomes less efficient and the skin barrier weakens. At the same time, cumulative exposure from UV and other environmental aggressors increases oxidative stress and inflammation.

The biology of ageing skin

We often associate older skin with wrinkles or fragile skin, but ageing is not simply defined by these common characteristics. Skin ageing is actually the result of several biological shifts, compounded by extrinsic factors.

Reduced cell turnover

The epidermis is continually renewed by cells produced in the basal layer of skin, between the epidermis and dermis. From here, keratinocyte cells start to move out and transform, losing their nucleus and other functions, which turns them into corneocytes. It is these flat, dead cells that form the outermost layer of skin. Eventually, the cells flake off and become dust. The time it takes for a cell to be produced in the basal layer and shed from the skin’s surface is approximately 28 days.¹ But over time, as we age, this cycle extends. This means dead cells can accumulate on the surface, contributing to dullness, roughness and an uneven skin texture.

Fibroblast decline

As we age, fibroblast activity within the skin also declines, with an average reduction of 35% between our twenties and eighties.² This means reduced collagen and elastin synthesis, as it is our dermal fibroblasts that generate these proteins. The collagen matrix also starts to fragment with age, which means fibroblasts can’t attach to it. The loss of attachment prevents fibroblasts from functioning correctly, and they collapse. Not only do these collapsed fibroblasts produce low levels of collagen, but they also produce high levels of collagen-degrading enzymes.³ The result is lax, wrinkled skin with a lack of structural integrity.

Barrier weakening

Our skin barrier relies on lipids, including ceramides and fatty acids, to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and defend against external agents. These lipids also play a vital role in maintaining skin integrity. Lipids are found predominantly in the outermost layer of the epidermis, and as we age, there is a considerable decline in all major lipid species, particularly ceramides.⁴ This leads to a compromised skin barrier, with signs including dryness, wrinkling, loss of elasticity, increased reactivity and reduced tolerance to environmental stress.

Slower repair processes

On a cellular level, inflammation, immune cells and cell senescence are all directly connected to ageing.⁵ This reduced cellular DNA repair capacity leaves our skin more susceptible to external aggressors and microdamages.

Increased oxidative stress

As we age, our cumulative exposure to environmental factors, including UV radiation and pollution, continues to increase. These aggressors generate free radicals, unstable molecules that scavenge other molecules and create a cascade of oxidative stress. This damages the skin’s natural antioxidant defences, structural proteins and DNA, accelerating signs of ageing.

What ageing skin needs, biologically

Ingredients that support the skin barrier

The skin barrier should be our first priority when treating ageing skin, because healthy skin cannot exist without a healthy barrier.

Skin barrier integrity is increasingly important as we grow older, but a compromised barrier is one of the most overlooked drivers of visible skin ageing. When the barrier is weak or compromised, the skin will become dry and irritated, with a lower tolerance for active ingredients. This makes it much more difficult to incorporate targeted treatments into an anti-ageing skin routine.

To support the skin barrier, choose ingredients such niacinamide, which will boost the skin barrier by enhancing ceramide synthesis, the naturally-occurring lipids that replenish the skin barrier and improve hydration. Additional ceramides will also help to boost overall skin resilience. Other lipid-replenishing active ingredients include fatty acids, hyaluronic acid and peptides. These components will work alongside ceramides to strengthen and stabilise the skin, making it more resilient, with a better tolerance for other active ingredients that will treat signs of ageing.

Antioxidants

The key to protecting against free radicals and oxidative stress is antioxidants. These powerful compounds have a unique ability, neutralising free radicals by donating electrons to rebalance the unstable molecules. As well as neutralising free radicals, antioxidants also support the skin’s natural defence mechanisms by maintaining cellular balance and supporting long-term skin resilience.

Antioxidants can be naturally occurring or synthetic. Our bodies produce their own antioxidants, but not in high enough quantities to fight back against continual exposure to environmental free radicals. This is why it’s crucial to incorporate antioxidants into every skincare routine, with common types including vitamin C, vitamin E and more advanced antioxidant technologies. Whilst these ingredients cannot completely halt or reverse ageing, they work to protect the skin by reducing cumulative oxidative damage.

Ingredients that support skin regeneration

Skin regeneration slows with age, so it’s crucial to include ingredients that encourage cell renewal.

Retinol and advanced retinoid technologies offer a multitude of benefits, including increased skin cell turnover. Other benefits include boosting skin cell function, normalising sebum production and supporting collagen and elastin synthesis. However, some retinoids are difficult for delicate or compromised skin to tolerate. That’s why the delivery system is key; the formulation should offer maximum penetration and efficacy, whilst minimising irritation.

Other advanced formulations are designed to support fibroblast activity and the extracellular matrix. This includes growth factors, which tell our fibroblasts to increase production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid; alpha hydroxy acids which encourage skin cell turnover; and azelaic acid, which also functions as a mild exfoliant. Of course, delivery systems are again of great importance, and the way in which these ingredients are delivered to the skin will dictate the benefits and long-term results.

Ingredients that improve skin tolerance and comfort

Along with the powerful actives that make a visible difference to ageing skin, it is important to include soothing and anti-inflammatory ingredients.

Ageing skin is often more reactive, owed to barrier thinning and inflammation. Gentle, soothing ingredients will maintain comfort and reduce irritation, allowing other ingredients to work more effectively. These can include panthenol, bisabobol, vitamin E and other peptide complexes. By reducing inflammation in the skin, these ingredients support overall skin tolerance and make the skin more receptive to actives.

Gradually building up the concentration and/or your usage of active ingredients will also help to improve skin tolerance.

The importance of delivery systems for ingredients to reach the skin

As mentioned, the way in which ingredients are delivered to ageing skin is particularly important. That’s because ageing skin can present a unique set of challenges, with slower cell turnover and structural alterations to the epidermis, which will influence ingredient penetration and tolerability.

The efficacy of an ingredient depends not only on its formula, but on its stability, its molecular size and its encapsulation or delivery system.

Some advanced skincare delivery technologies are designed to optimise penetration and distribution, as well as protecting active molecules until they reach their intended site of action. This helps to support tolerance. A prime example is Cantabria Labs’ exclusive, patented RetinDuo® Technology, which contains a combination of two powerful, high-tolerance retinoids, pure retinol in microsponges and AOX Tech-encapsulated retinal. This dual-retinoid technology offers both controlled surface release and deep delivery, supported by a targeted booster complex which optimises bioavailability. The result is an enhanced retinoid performance with better comfort.

Other delivery systems might boost the action of an ingredient, such as Azealaic Aox-Tech, which increases the action of azelaic acid up to five times.

Without the right delivery system, even the most effective active ingredient can’t perform optimally.

Why dermatology focuses on ingredient synergy, not single actives

While there are many ingredients that can help to target and treat ageing skin concerns, there is no single active that is ‘best’. Ageing involves a number of considerations, including oxidative stress, collagen degradation and skin barrier decline. As such, a combined approach is always best, focusing on synergy and balance. This can include:

• Barrier-supporting ingredients, to boost skin barrier strength, increase hydration and improve tolerance
• Antioxidants, which defend against environmental aggressors and support long-term skin resilience
• Regenerative actives, which encourage skin cell turnover and dermal support
• Soothing ingredients that will maintain comfort and reduce irritation, improving tolerability so that active ingredients can perform optimally

When combined appropriately, these ingredients will support skin defence, repair and regeneration. But it is also important to not over-treat the skin, especially when it comes to high-potency actives or exfoliants that can further strip the skin barrier.

Managing ageing skin is about supporting skin function

The best treatment for ageing skin is not a single ingredient, but a careful and combined approach that focuses on supporting the biological processes that naturally decline over time. Ageing skin needs to be protected, reinforced and soothed, with a regular and consistent skincare routine that incorporates dermatologically-proven ingredients and technologies.

That’s where ENDOCARE comes in, a science-led range from Cantabria Labs, specifically formulated to target key skin ageing concerns, including a weakened skin barrier, dullness, uneven texture and tone, and fine lines and wrinkles.

ENDOCARE is created with gold-standard active ingredients and patented technologies, clinically-proven to improve skin barrier function, increase hydration,⁶ increase collagen and elastin production, and offer exceptional tolerability, even for the most sensitive ageing skin.⁷ Backed by more than 20 years of clinical research and numerous studies in leading international scientific and medical journals, it is the ultimate choice for visible anti-ageing results, for the long-term.