Why skin of colour absolutely still need sun protection
Published on 26 September 2025
An evidence-based note from an aesthetic doctor
Think of this as your short, evidence-packed consultation with an aesthetic physician who cares about preservation of skin health and tone. There’s a persistent myth that “sunscreen for skin of colour isn't needed.” That myth costs people with skin of colour clear cosmetic and health benefits: preventing pigment flares, avoiding stubborn post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and slowing photo-ageing.
Below I’ll explain the biology, the science, and exactly what to use and how to use it.
Does melanin protect against the sun? Why skin of colour still needs SPF
Melanin does provide some natural photoprotection (darker skin can absorb more UV than lighter skin), but that protection is limited. Estimates put the intrinsic SPF of very dark skin in the low double-digits (often cited around SPF ~10–13), which leaves a substantial protection gap compared with the SPF 30+ dermatologists recommend. In short: melanin helps, melanin helps, but it is not enough to replace a broad-spectrum SPF for darker skin tones and prevent UV-driven pigmentary problems, photo-damage, or later complications.1,2 This widespread but false belief that sunscreen for skin of colour isn’t needed can leave people under-protected.
How UV and visible light affect skin of colour: Pigmentation & PIH
Sunlight is not just “burn or no burn.” Different wavelengths do different things:
- UVB drives sunburn and stimulates melanocytes to increase melanin production.
- UVA penetrates deeper, generates reactive oxygen species (ROS), and contributes to long-term dermal damage and photo-ageing.
Visible light (especially high-energy visible/blue light) is now established as a meaningful trigger of long-lasting hyperpigmentation in melano-competent skin (Fitzpatrick III–VI). Research shows that skin cells called melanocytes can actually ‘see’ blue light from the sun. When they detect this light, they switch on pigment-producing pathways that make skin darker and keep it that way. This helps explain why conditions like melasma or dark marks in deeper skin tones often get darker and linger after sun exposure.3,4
Because UV and visible light both stimulate melanin synthesis and oxidative stress, sun exposure often creates or deepens pigmentary problems such as melasma and PIH, and makes them much harder to treat. PIH is especially common and long-lasting in darker skins, and sun exposure is a major aggravating factor.5,6
Evidence-based benefits of sunscreen for skin of colour
Broad-spectrum sunscreen (UVA + UVB) applied daily markedly reduces cumulative photo-damage and slows clinical skin ageing - randomized controlled evidence supports this effect and regular sunscreen use is a practical anti-ageing intervention.7
For melasma and PIH, multiple clinical studies show that broad protection including visible-light shielding stabilises and reduces hyperpigmentation and reduces relapse after active treatment. Sunscreen is a cornerstone adjuvant treatment.8,4,9
Finally, although people with darker skin have lower overall incidence of many UV-driven skin cancers, cancers are often diagnosed later and with worse outcomes in many populations with darker skin - another reason to avoid the “no sunscreen” approach.10,11
Daily sunscreen rules for skin of colour (Doctor’s Advice)
Short, actionable - treat these as the essentials you can start using today.
Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily with SPF 50+. Apply even on cloudy days; UVA and visible light still reach your skin. (Dermatology guidance recommends SPF 30+.)12
If you have melasma or PIH, choose a tinted/mineral or hybrid sunscreen that contains iron oxides. This blocks visible light and is proven to reduce visible-light-induced darkening in skin of colour.4,8
Quantity and timing matter: aim for 2 mg/cm² of skin coverage (clinically used standard) - roughly a ¼ teaspoon for the face/neck each application (rules of thumb vary; clinicians use the 2 mg/cm² rule). Apply sunscreen 15 minutes before sun exposure (chemical filters need time to bind; mineral filters work immediately) and reapply every 2 hours when you’re outdoors, or after swimming/sweating.12
Combine strategies: hats, UPF clothing, sunglasses, and seeking shade reduce total dose of UV + visible light and complement sunscreen.
How sunscreen helps when you’re already treating pigment
If you’re using topical depigmenting agents (e.g., prescription lighteners, retinoids, azelaic acid, chemical peels or aesthetic procedures), sun exposure - particularly visible light - will stunt improvement and provoke recurrence. Studies and clinical reviews show sunscreen reduces relapse in melasma and makes post-procedural PIH less likely. In other words: sunscreen is part of the treatment, not just prevention. If you’re undergoing treatments, discuss a sunscreen strategy with your treating clinician.9,13
Extra skincare tips for pigmentation-prone skin of colour
Evidence about low-energy blue light from screens is still evolving; sunlight is the dominant exposure to worry about. Still, for those with severe melasma/PIH, sunscreen and limiting direct strong screen-facing exposure may help.14
Don’t pick or aggressively traumatize inflamed or healing skin - that’s the single most common trigger of PIH. Gentle skincare and sun protection reduce new PIH.
If pigment is significant or persistent, consult a dermatologist or aesthetic physician experienced in skin of colour: individualized regimens (topical agents, safe in-clinic procedures and maintenance photoprotection) give the best results.
The bottom line: Why sunscreen is essential for skin of colour
If you have skin of colour, sun protection is not optional - it’s a fundamental, evidence-based tool to prevent stubborn pigmentation, to make treatments work better, and to slow skin ageing. For pigment-prone skin, choose a broad-spectrum SPF 50+, preferably a iron-oxide-containing sunscreen, use the right quantity, reapply, and combine with physical barriers. That small daily habit keeps your skin clearer, more even, and healthier over years.
A clinical highlight: HELIOCARE & Fernblock® Technology
What is Fernblock®?
HELIOCARE sunscreens are unique because they’re powered by Fernblock® technology, an extract from Polypodium leucotomos, a tropical fern that developed potent natural defences against solar radiation. Backed by more than 80 clinical studies, Fernblock® delivers:15,16,17,18,19
- Protection across UVA, UVB, visible light, and infrared-A
- DNA repair support and antioxidant defence against oxidative stress
- Inhibition of enzymes like MMPs that break down collagen (helping prevent photo-ageing)
- Immune support by preserving skin’s Langerhans cells
- Clinically proven benefits in pigmentation disorders such as melasma and PIH by reducing visible-light-induced darkening
Why Fernblock® matters for skin of colour
For melanin-rich skin, the problem isn’t just UV - it’s visible light and oxidative stress. Fernblock® directly targets these, making it especially valuable in preventing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma relapse, and uneven skin tone, while also slowing down structural ageing.
Practical HELIOCARE recommendations
For my patients with skin of colour, I often suggest integrating HELIOCARE 360° products:
- HELIOCARE 360° Pigment Solution Fluid SPF50+ – lightweight, lightly tinted fluid enriched with Fernblock®, niacinamide, ellagic acid, DNA repair enzymes and antioxidants; specifically designed for preventing and correcting pigmentation.
- HELIOCARE 360° Water Gel SPF50+ – ultra-light, invisible finish (no white cast), ideal for daily use on all skin tones.
- HELIOCARE 360° COLOR Gel Oil-Free SPF50+ – tinted gel with a matte finish; great for oily or combination skin, giving both coverage and broad-spectrum photoprotection.
- HELIOCARE 360° Capsules (oral Fernblock®) – antioxidant and UV defence that complement topical sunscreen, especially helpful for those undergoing treatments or spending prolonged time outdoors.
Final Doctor’s Note
HELIOCARE with Fernblock® represents a new generation of photoprotection - not just blocking rays but actively repairing, defending, and reducing pigment relapse. For skin of colour, where pigmentation and photo-ageing are the biggest cosmetic concerns, this makes HELIOCARE a particularly effective partner in your daily skincare routine.
