What type of acne do I have? A guide to mild, moderate and severe acne
Acne vulgaris is one of the most common skin conditions across the globe, affecting approximately nine percent of the population1, with different types of acne ranging from mild to severe.
Acne is especially common during puberty, a time when fluctuating hormone levels can increase the production of sebum. This overproduction leads to blocked pores and the development of spots. While teenagers are most often affected, adult acne is also common, with women more likely to experience it than men. This is due to the hormonal variations associated with menstruation, pregnancy, menopause and polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS).
The different types of acne
It’s very normal to get spots, but there’s a considerable difference between mild, moderate and severe acne. Understanding these different types of acne is essential for discovering the right course of treatment and whether you should seek professional help.
| Feature | Mild Acne | Moderate Acne | Severe Acne |
| Number of Lesions | Few spots (generally <20 comedones or <15 inflamed lesions) | Noticeable amount (20–100 comedones, 15–50 inflamed lesions) | Widespread (many inflamed lesions, nodules, or cysts) |
| Types of Spots | Blackheads, whiteheads, a few small pimples | Blackheads, whiteheads, papules, pustules | Papules, pustules, nodules, cysts (often deep and painful) |
| Location | Mostly on face (forehead, nose, chin) | Face, chest, and/or back | Large areas of face, chest, back, shoulders, sometimes arms |
| Inflammation | Minimal, usually not painful | Moderate redness and swelling | Severe redness, swelling, painful deep lumps |
| Scarring Risk | Low | Moderate (if not treated properly) | High (permanent scars and pigmentation changes likely) |
| Skin Appearance | Slightly bumpy or oily, but manageable | Obvious acne, harder to conceal | Very noticeable, can affect self-esteem significantly |
| Pain/Discomfort | Mild, usually not painful | Sometimes painful, especially deeper spots | Often very painful, throbbing, or tender cysts |
| Typical Triggers | Hormonal changes, skincare, mild stress | Hormonal fluctuations, diet, stress, skincare, some medications | Strong hormonal imbalance, genetics, underlying conditions |
What is mild acne? Symptoms & causes
Mild acne typically includes whiteheads, blackheads and small, occasional papules.
Whiteheads and blackheads, also known as comedones, are the mildest type of spots. They tend to appear in the T-zone area, where pores are larger and the skin more oily. Whiteheads (closed comedones) are small, light bumps. Blackheads (open comedones) are small black spots that have opened up, allowing air inside and oxidising the sebum.
These types of spots are not usually inflamed, and they may occur individually and sporadically, rather than in clusters.
What is moderate acne? Symptoms & causes
Moderate acne features a combination of papules and pustules.
Papules are small, solid bumps under the surface of the skin, with some inflammation surrounding the area. Pustules are larger in size and filled with a light-coloured pus where cells have collected. Both types of spots can appear in clusters and may cover larger areas of the face and body.
What is severe acne? Symptoms, causes & scarring risks
Severe forms of acne will be characterised by very aggressive spots, including papules, pustules, nodules and cysts.
Nodules are hard, inflamed, painful lumps that occur deep within the skin, the result of a clogged pore becoming infected and swelling. Cysts are large, painful lumps that form deep under the skin’s surface, filled with pus and soft to touch. These types of acne often involve widespread inflammation and may lead to scarring.
Causes of acne: Hormonal, bacterial & lifestyle factors
Acne is caused by blocked hair follicles, which are filled with an excess of sebum, dead skin cells and bacteria. The blockage prevents the normal flow of oil through the pores, causing irritation and swelling in the surrounding skin. People with oily skin are more likely to develop acne, as their sebaceous glands naturally produce more oil, creating a greater likelihood of congestion.
Mild acne is often caused by hormonal fluctuations, such as those during puberty and pregnancy, as well as clogged pores and irritating skincare products.
Moderate acne may also be caused by the above, as well as an increase in bacterial activity on the skin, or inflammation due to immune response or hormonal imbalances. Other factors like poor diet and stress may also exacerbate symptoms.
Severe acne is often caused by significant hormonal shifts, such as PCOS, as well as chronic inflammation and overactive immune response. There may also be a genetic factor in all cases.
Acne can be caused or aggravated by external aggressors, too. Pollution aggravates the skin and can worsen existing skin conditions. Cigarette smoke also causes inflammation. We might also notice breakouts when it’s hot, because we sweat more and produce more oil, which clogs our pores.
How to tell if you have severe acne
The general guide for severe acne is a high number of large papules, pustules, nodules and cysts with a lot of inflammation and potential scarring. You may notice very little improvement - if any - when making lifestyle adjustments or using over-the-counter skincare products.
If you’re unsure about the severity level of your acne, speak to your GP or make an appointment with a dermatologist. If you’re in pain, experiencing significant scarring or it’s having a big impact on your mental health, seek professional help as soon as possible.
The emotional impact of severe acne
While acne primarily affects the physical appearance and texture of the skin, it can also have a significant emotional and psychological impact. Individuals suffering from acne often report feelings of low self-esteem, anxiety and depression2. This is particularly true in cases where the acne is persistent, severe or visibly scarring.
The emotional burden of acne can affect various aspects of life, including social interactions, professional confidence and general wellbeing. For this reason, treating acne is about more than improving the skin’s appearance. Effective treatment can help to prevent further breakouts, reduce the risk of scarring and enhance a person’s mental health and overall quality of life.
How to treat acne
If you are experiencing acne, avoid washing your face too often or scrubbing too hard, which can dry out the skin and damage the skin barrier. Do not squeeze or pick at active breakouts, as this can force the congestion deeper into the skin, increasing inflammation and leading to scarring. Look for non-comedogenic products and avoid any irritants, as heavy, oil-based products will clog pores and lead to further breakouts.
For severe cases of acne, speak to a skin professional. A dermatologist can offer a number of options, including prescription topical retinoids, antibiotics, Isotretinoin (Accutane) and professional skin treatments, like chemical peels or laser therapy.
There are also a number of over-the-counter ingredients that are recommended for acne-prone skin. But the ultimate solution is BIRETIX, a dermatologically-approved skincare range that targets every stage of the spot cycle. BIRETIX is clinically proven to significantly reduce blemishes, reduce spot-causing bacteria, control oil, hydrate the skin and improve skin texture. It achieves this with a combination of powerful ingredients:
BIOPEP-15
BIRETIX is formulated with the amazing technology BIOPEP-15, an incredible bioactive peptide that is clinically proven to prevent the formation of spots and reduce the severity of existing breakouts. It has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, which fight the main acne-causing bacteria, Cutibacterium acne, as well as reducing redness and soothing irritation.
Retinol
Retinol is one of the only ingredients that is scientifically proven to visibly reduce the signs of ageing. It also increases skin cell turnover and normalises sebum production, which helps to promote smooth, clear and oil-free skin.
RetinSphere®
BIRETIX also features RetinSphere® Technology, a patented retinol complex that combines two potent forms of retinol in a dual-delivery system: hydroxypinacalone retinoate and retinol in microsponges. This provides high efficacy retinol with minimal irritation, increasing cell turnover, reducing signs of ageing, improving skin texture and promoting a bright and clear complexion.
Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is recommended for mild to moderate cases of acne. It promotes the shedding of dead skin cells and reduces inflammation. This in turn helps to prevent the formation of new spots and speeds up the healing of active breakouts.
Niacinimide
Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, helps to reduce pore size, improves hyperpigmentation and locks in moisture for a stronger skin barrier. It also has anti-inflammatory properties to reduce redness and inflammation, as well as regulating the amount of oil the skin produces.
Glycolic acid
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that gently exfoliates the skin, increasing skin cell turnover, reducing fine lines and unifying the skin tone. It can help to improve the appearance of acne, as well as acne scarring.
Fernblock®
It is extremely important to use high-level sun protection during acne treatment, because the skin is more susceptible to damage when using active ingredients, such as acids and retinol. To protect against post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and sun damage, sunscreen is a must. This is the shield to protect the skin and preserve the positive results from other acne treatments.
For ultimate protection, look for products containing Fernblock®, an award-winning sun protection technology derived from the tropical fern Polypodium leucotomas. It is clinically proven to protect the skin from deep within, offering unrivalled protection against skin damage caused by solar radiation (UVA, UVB, HEV and infrared-A) and free radicals. It offers antioxidant protection against sunburn, inflammation and redness, as well as improving overall skin health. Fernblock® is the base active ingredient in HELIOCARE 360°, which is ideal for use following your morning application of BIRETIX.
Why Choose BIRETIX for acne- dermatologist-proven skincare for acne-prone skin
The BIRETIX range is designed for every stage of acne-prone skin. It takes a holistic and scientific approach to managing acne, targeting both active spots and long-term skin health. Its clinically-proven ingredients work to treat, purify and care for spot-prone skin, rapidly reducing blemishes and preventing future breakouts. It is suitable for treating mild to moderate acne at home, as well as being safe for use in combination with medical prescription treatments for more severe cases.
A daily BIRETIX routine for acne-prone skin
Choose the BIRETIX 4-step Treat and Protect regime for a simple and effective daily routine. If you have adult acne, choose the BIRETIX Regime for Adult Acne - Treat and Protect. This regime contains the BIRETIX Cleanser, BIRETIX Hydramat and the new BIRETIX Double Correction Serum, along with the best-selling HELIOCARE 360° Gel Oil-Free SPF50.
If you have adolescent or persistent acne, choose the BIRETIX Regime for Adolescent or Persistent Acne - Treat and Protect. This regime contains the BIRETIX Cleanser, BIRETIX Hydramat and the powerhouse BIRETIX Tri-Active Anti-Blemish Gel, along with HELIOCARE 360° Gel Oil-Free SPF50.
Each formulation has been expertly designed for acne-prone skin, dermatologically proven to reduce blemishes, imperfections and sebum, whilst caring for the skin and providing full-spectrum protection.
The BIRETIX regimes are currently available with 40% off RRP - an incredible saving on a tried and tested skincare routine for acne. And remember, seek advice from a skincare professional if:
- Your acne is painful, deep or spreading
- You develop cysts or nodules
- The spots are scarring
- Your self-esteem is impacted
- You see no improvement after several weeks of home-care
