How AOX-TECH nanovesicle delivery improves active penetration in compromised skin
Published on 31 March 2026Skincare strategies can often focus on ingredients, such as retinoids for skin cell turnover and collagen production, hyaluronic acid for hydration, antioxidants for environmental defence and AHAs for exfoliation. These powerful ingredients offer chemical activities that influence the way our skin cells work. But the true power of an ingredient depends on more than these properties. We also need to be considering the formulation and delivery system that carries the ingredient, which are both crucial for the efficacy of the product and the visible results in the skin.
What does ‘delivery technology’ mean in skincare?
In skincare, delivery technologies refer to the systems used to transport certain active ingredients into the skin. Two products may contain the same ingredient, but perform very differently depending on how that ingredient is stabilised and delivered through the epidermis.
When active ingredients are stabilised, their integrity is maintained so they don’t break down, lose potency or grow bacteria. This ensures the ingredient remains safe and effective throughout use.
When an active ingredient is applied to the surface of the skin, it will initially encounter the stratum corneum, or the skin barrier. This outermost layer is made up of tightly packed corneocyte cells, embedded within a lipid matrix. The primary role of the stratum corneum is to be a barrier, preventing excessive water loss and preventing the penetration of harmful substances, including allergens and bacteria.
This protective function means that some beneficial skincare ingredients can’t get to the deeper layers of skin. Instead, unable to reach their target site and perform, they remain on the surface of the skin.
As such, the true effect of many active ingredients is limited because they are unable to penetrate into the appropriate layer of skin.
This challenge is heightened when the skin barrier is compromised. A damaged and dehydrated barrier will reduce tolerance, which leads to discomfort and the need to pause treatments. A stressed skin barrier is also unable to absorb ingredients effectively, which means application is futile and the product is wasted.
Delivery technologies are designed to address these challenges, enhancing penetration through the skin barrier, stabilising ingredients with encapsulation, and allowing gradual release in the right area of the skin. This will improve the efficacy of the product, and the tolerance for sensitive skin types.
What are nanovesicles?
Nanovesicles are microscopic, ‘nano-sized’ structures used in advanced skincare formulations to carry targeted active ingredients into the skin. They operate at the nanometre level (one-billionth of a metre) and are many, many times smaller than a typical skin cell. Nanovesicles are often composed of lipid-based membranes that form the small, spherical compartments, which encapsulate active molecules.
The size of nanovesicles allows them to interact more effectively with the skin barrier. Since the membranes are composed of similar lipids, they can integrate more closely into the outer layer of the epidermis, travelling through the skin and gradually releasing their contents. Other benefits of nanovesicles include improving ingredient stability and protecting sensitive molecules from degradation. They also allow for controlled delivery of an ingredient.
Conventional formulations of skincare products will freely disperse ingredients, not necessarily in the right target site. They also struggle to penetrate the skin, and are more likely to degrade.
How compromised skin changes absorption and efficacy
Healthy skin is balanced and hydrated, with a resilient barrier and stable immune responses. When the skin barrier is disrupted, it becomes less efficient, allowing more moisture to escape and increasing inflammation levels. The skin is also unable to recover from the usual daily stresses of UV, pollution and harsh weather conditions.
At a biological level, there are several factors to consider when treating compromised skin. First, the reduced integrity of the skin barrier, which is what leads to transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and a higher risk of external irritants. Secondly, an increase in inflammation as the skin’s immune responses become more active, especially in skin conditions that involve redness and sensitivity. Thirdly, the reduced predictability of the skin, whereby it’s more difficult to anticipate reactions and results.
Compromised skin presents in several different ways. It can appear dry, rough, dull, inflamed and unusually sensitive to skincare products that were previously tolerated. It may be in need of supportive ingredients to restore hydration and reduce inflammation, but at the same time, it is less able to tolerate high concentrations of actives.
These changes impact the balance of the skin. Delivery technology, therefore, is critical in maintaining efficacy and comfort when using active ingredients.
How AOX-TECH uses nanovesicles to improve active delivery
Cantabria Labs patented delivery technology, AOX-TECH, involves a nanovesicle delivery system that is designed to maximise the penetration, performance, stability and tolerability of active ingredients. These include retinal, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and azelaic acid. By optimising how the ingredients interact with the skin, AOX-TECH helps to secure better skin results with reduced irritation.
The process begins with encapsulation. Active molecules are enclosed within the AOX-TECH nanovesicles, which are 98% natural, pharmaceutical-grade compounds with calming, hydrating, repairing properties. These include Phosphatidylcholine, a naturally-occurring phospholipid that can mimic the skin barrier, offering strength, repair and hydration; Hesperidine, an antioxidant from orange peel, which offers gentle protection whilst defending against environmental stressors; and Lutyle Glucoside, a sugar-derived compound that supports comfort, balance and stability of formulations. This encapsulation shields the active ingredient from degradation caused by oxygen, light or other components within the formulation.
Once applied to the skin, the AOX-TECH nanovesicles can travel more easily through the layers of the epidermis, due to their small size and compatibility with the lipids in the skin. As they move through the skin’s layers, the nanovesicles gradually release their active ingredients in the correct areas, limiting any sudden high exposure, which can lead to irritation. AOX-TECH offers up to twelve times greater penetration of active ingredients, compared to standard application, with up to five times more active ingredient penetrating the epidermis in the six hours following application.1
Nanovesicles also offer better stability. Certain actives are chemically sensitive, degrading rapidly upon exposure to water, oxygen2 and other compounds. But with encapsulation within AOX-TECH nanovesicles, our actives are protected throughout storage and application, which means a higher proportion of the ingredient is active when applied to the skin.
Furthermore, nanovesicles (and other forms of nanoencapsulation) allow otherwise incompatible or poorly soluble substances to work in synergy. This sets them apart from conventional formulations, which do not always allow certain substances to function together.3
In compromised skin in particular, AOX-TECH nanovesicles offer the perfect combination of protection, targeted delivery and gradual release that supports better tolerance whilst still allowing the formulation to perform effectively. A great example is the ENDOCARE Niacinal Serum Gel, our barrier-first niacinamide treatment that focuses on skin barrier repair, protection and resilience, which combines high-strength niacinamide with unique EDAFENCE® anti-pollution technology and advanced hyaluronic acid delivery in AOX-TECH. Not only does this serum deliver clinically-proven efficacy, but it also offers long-term skin tolerance, even in compromised skin types.
Why delivery matters for actives like hyaluronic acid, azelaic acid and retinoids
As discussed, the efficacy of a skincare ingredient depends not only on its biological function, but also on its ability to reach the correct layer of skin where a function occurs.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is known for its capacity to bind and retain water within the skin, increasing hydration and plumpness, smoothing out wrinkles and restoring skin elasticity. But HA has a large molecular structure, which makes it difficult to penetrate below the surface of the epidermis. AOX-TECH nanovesicles transport HA deeper into the skin by reducing its molecular weight, making it approximately twenty times smaller than what is usually considered a ‘low’ molecular weight HA. This allows for deeper penetration and better results. HA in AOX-TECH is clinically proven to increase skin firmness by 24%, increase elasticity by 20% and reduce the depth and length of forehead wrinkles by 24% and 28%, respectively.4
Azelaic acid presents a different challenge. This versatile, multi-tasking ingredient works to improve uneven skin tone and calm inflammation and redness, but it can also cause irritation in sensitive skin types.
Encapsulating azelaic acid within AOX-TECH nanovesicles helps to reduce reactions, as the release is gentle and sustained. The action of azelaic acid within AOX-TECH is even boosted up to five times, as the formula remains potent from the first application to the last, and the active ingredient reaches exactly where it needs to be.
This formulation strategy and delivery system is especially relevant in skin that is compromised, reactive or inflamed, including rosacea and redness-prone skin.
Why advanced delivery systems are beneficial for rosacea and redness-prone skin
For individuals experiencing rosacea and redness, delivery systems like AOX-TECH are highly recommended, offering targeted ingredients to the underlying causes of rosacea whilst strengthening the skin barrier. Ingredients like azelaic acid and niacinamide in AOX-TECH directly address inflammation in the skin, reducing redness and stabilising the skin.
Rosacea-prone skin often displays a weakened skin barrier, which leads to greater TEWL. The skin’s natural repair mechanisms then operate less efficiently, as hydration levels have declined. This further exacerbates the skin’s vulnerability to irritation from the environment, but also topical skincare products. This means that rosacea-prone skin may also struggle with otherwise tolerated formulations during flare ups. Advanced delivery systems, such as AOX-TECH nanovesicles, will ensure effective penetration and controlled release, without the risk of additional irritation. Look for ingredients that focus on reducing TEWL and restoring lipids, which will support the skin barrier without aggravating the skin.
Performance depends on delivery, not just ingredients
The efficacy of a skincare formulation depends on more than the ingredients listed. Its active molecules must remain stable, with the ability to penetrate the skin’s protective barrier and target the right layers of skin, where they can influence biological functions. Without this encapsulation and delivery system, even the most effective active ingredient will not perform optimally.
AOX-TECH nanovesicles address the challenge of penetration in compromised skin, encapsulating powerful active ingredients within scientifically-proven carriers, which can deliver a targeted approach and controlled release. The result is better penetration, absorption, stability and tolerance, optimising how the active ingredient interacts with the skin and ensuring better results.
